Our Diverse Land In A Bottle
The Age
Saturday January 26, 2008
Not wanting to sound unpatriotic, but, Australia Day has little resonance in this winey home - it's only remembered because there's a public holiday handed out, which means a sleep-in. It'd probably be ignored completely if my brother hadn't be born on that day, so at least there'll be a swilling of a beer or two, most likely a Belgian brew. And he wasn't even born here - in fact we all grew up in Malaysia. It's the controversial citizenship test that's prompted the musing as to what it is to be Australian. Recent reports of the high failure rate of those poor folk having to sit the 20 question test (come on, as if it really makes any difference) have at least prompted the Rudd Government to review it. Well, it would be a fine Australia Day gift to get rid of it completely (not sure if gifts are handed out but they should be). Call me un-Australian but whether you know the national gemstone or a sporting hero (two of the questions) does not mean you'll make a bad Aussie or that you will fail to integrate. Mate, on fuzzy days - and there are many - fair dinkum I would have failed the test, too. You see, knowing and actions are two different things. Which brings me to wine, in case you were wondering. There is probably no industry so informed by, influenced and indebted to migrants than the wine trade. It is the ultimate multicultural business. Indeed, its very success is due to migrants and on every level, from the seasonal pickers (especially the adept Cambodians), the itinerant workers doing vintage to learn from us, through to the winemakers who grow their favourite grape varieties that originally hailed from France, Italy, Austria, Spain, Germany or Georgia.
Besides, plenty of these winemakers are second and third-generation Australians. One of the main reasons our wine industry excels as well as it does: we're not encumbered by rules or the influence of any one country. We can grow what we want and where we please, unlike Europe, which is confined to appellations and often archaic rules. That's not to say we don't value regionality, difference and terroir because we do; our most talented winemakers are already proving that. So, the best way to celebrate this Australia Day weekend and be mindful of the importance of heritage is to try one of these Australian wines - each of which was influenced by another country, other people. Salute.janefaulkner@winematters.com.au -- JANE FAULKNERMOUNT HORROCKS RIESLING 2007 $27One of my all time favourite rieslings and this '07 is a real charmer. An early vintage hasn't stopped the wine from displaying delicate floral and lime notes, zesty but soft with gentle acidity, and plenty of balance and poise. Love it immensely.YALUMBA THE OCTAVIUS 2003 $90Yalumba's top shiraz and, honestly, it was so closed that I left it for a day and it was the better for it. Then its true character started to radiate - ripe, rich dark plums, mulberries, blueberries and fruit compote, mocha and spice with concentrated sweet oak and fruit on the palate matched to velvety tannins and plenty of length. So intense that you need bloody meats; the winemaker suggests a grilled T-bone, rare; yep that'll be ace.HARDY'S ARRAS 2002 $50It is simply a sheer pleasure to drink Arras, Australia's finest sparkling wine. The '02 is richer, more powerful, so it's drinking well now. Quite savoury with mushroomy notes loaded with toasty, nutty, yeasty autolysis characters, ultra-fine bead and extraordinary length.
© 2008 The Age